Predicting the breaking strength of gravity water waves

10 Feb 2018 Derakhti M. Banner M. L. Kirby J. T.

We revisit the classical but as yet unresolved problem of predicting the strength of breaking 2-D and 3-D gravity water waves, as quantified by the amount of wave energy dissipated per breaking event. Following Duncan (1983), the wave energy dissipation rate per unit length of breaking crest may be related to the fifth moment of the wave speed and the non-dimensional breaking strength parameter $b$... (read more)

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